Building a Basic UK Home Toolkit
Most small household jobs need the same dozen or so tools. If you buy a sensible starter kit once and look after it, you will be ready to hang a picture, tighten a loose hinge or put together flat-pack furniture without a trip to the shop each time. This lesson covers what to buy, what each item does, how to match bits to the job and how to keep the kit safe.
Task 1: Assemble the Core Hand Tools
Start with these eight items. Together they cover most small jobs in a UK home.
- Claw hammer. Drives nails, and the curved claw on the back pulls them out. A medium weight (about 16 oz) is easy to control.
- Screwdrivers. Get a set of slotted (flat) drivers and cross-head drivers in several sizes. A multi-bit driver with interchangeable tips saves space.
- Tape measure. A 5 m or 8 m tape with a locking button measures rooms, furniture and shelf positions. It shows both metric and imperial.
- Spirit level. The bubble sits centred between two lines when a surface is level (horizontal) or plumb (vertical). Use it for shelves, pictures and curtain poles.
- Utility knife. A retractable or snap-off blade cuts packaging, carpet, sealant and plasterboard paper. Always retract the blade after each cut.
- Pliers. Combination pliers grip, bend and cut wire. Long-nose pliers reach into tight spaces.
- Adjustable spanner. One spanner whose jaw opens to fit many nut sizes. You will use it on tap and radiator fittings and on furniture bolts.
- Cordless drill-driver. Drills holes and drives screws, with a clutch that stops the screw being over-tightened.
DO: Lay out what you already own and tick it off against this list before you buy anything.
Task 2: Choose the Right Drill
The drill will be your most-used power tool, so check which type you are buying.
- Drill-driver: drills and drives screws. It has no hammer mode, so it is not designed for drilling brick or concrete.
- Combi drill: does everything a drill-driver does and adds a hammer mode. In this mode the bit moves in and out as it spins, which chips away at masonry.
- Impact driver: built for driving lots of long screws. It is not a first purchase.
DO: If your home has brick or block walls, consider a combi drill. It works as a drill-driver when the hammer mode is switched off.
Task 3: Match Drill Bits to the Material
Using the wrong bit blunts it, damages the material and makes the drill harder to control. Follow these steps:
- Identify the material you are drilling into: wood, metal or masonry.
- Pick the matching bit:
- Wood bits (brad-point): a sharp centre spike and two spurs stop the bit wandering and give a clean hole.
- HSS (high-speed steel) bits: for metal. They also cut wood and plastics.
- Masonry bits: have a tungsten carbide tip, often a wider arrowhead shape. Use them for brick, block and concrete, normally with hammer mode on.
- Match the diameter to the job. The size is stamped on the shank (for example, 6 mm).
- Set the drill mode: drill mode for wood and metal, hammer mode only for masonry.
Example: hanging a wooden coat rail on a brick wall needs a masonry bit for the wall and a wood bit for the pilot holes in the rail.
Task 4: Match Screwdriver Tips to the Screw
A poorly fitting tip slips out of the screw head (called cam-out), which damages the screw and can cut your hand.
- Look closely at the screw head.
- Slotted: one straight line. Use a flat blade that fills the slot's width.
- Phillips (PH): a plain cross. Use a PH tip.
- Pozidriv (PZ): a cross with four small extra lines between the arms. It is very common on UK wood screws. Use a PZ tip.
- Check the size: PZ2 and PH2 fit most general screws. Use a size 1 tip for small screws and a size 3 for large ones.
PH and PZ tips are not interchangeable. A PZ tip will not seat properly in a Phillips screw, and a PH tip in a Pozidriv screw slips under load. A tip should sit firmly with no wobble.
DO: Write PH and PZ labels on your bit case so you pick the right tip quickly.
Task 5: Stock Basic Consumables
- Mixed screws and wall plugs (you will learn to choose these in a later lesson)
- Spare utility knife blades
- Masking tape and a pencil
- Sandpaper in a few grades
- Wood glue and a tube of filler
Task 6: Store and Maintain Your Tools
Well-kept tools are safer, because blunt blades and worn tips slip.
- Store tools dry. Damp causes rust. A toolbox or wall rack keeps tools sorted and away from children.
- Retract or cover blades before you put a knife away. Replace blunt or chipped blades straight away.
- Wipe tools clean after use. A light coat of oil on bare metal stops rust.
- Retire damaged items. Throw away bits that are blunt, bent or chipped, and screwdrivers with rounded tips.
- Look after drill batteries:
- Use only the charger supplied with the battery.
- Charge on a hard, flat surface, away from anything that burns and away from exits and hallways.
- Do not charge overnight or when no one is home, and unplug the charger once the battery is full.
- Let a hot battery cool before recharging.
- Stop using any battery that is swollen, leaking, dented or smells strange.
Check Your Result
- Every item in Task 1 is present and working.
- Your bits are sorted into wood, metal and masonry, and the screwdriver tips are labelled PH, PZ or slotted.
- Blades are sharp and retracted, and the tools are dry and rust-free.
- The drill battery charges in a safe spot and shows no damage.
Key Takeaways
- Eight core tools cover most small jobs: claw hammer, screwdrivers, tape measure, spirit level, utility knife, pliers, adjustable spanner and cordless drill-driver.
- A drill-driver has no hammer mode. A combi drill adds hammer mode for masonry.
- Match the bit to the material: brad-point for wood, HSS for metal, tungsten-carbide-tipped masonry bits for brick and concrete.
- Pozidriv screws have four extra lines in the cross. Use a PZ tip on them, not a PH tip.
- Keep tools dry, clean and sharp, and charge batteries with their own charger, never overnight or unattended.